Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Phnom Penh to Sonja Kill Memorial Hospital, Kampot

Ready to roll: KTM 990 and BMW R1200GS ADV



Dave and I had an early start this morning. We planned to ride from Phnom Penh to Kampot to visit the Sonja Kill Memorial Hospital (http://www.skmh.org). 

Given the road and traffic condition, this will be an all-day road trip, just a little bit over 200 miles round-trip, and we promised each other that would be back before dark, a matter of good judgment –and survival, I guess. 

I have written earlier in the blog that I would revisit the hospital again when I am back. From the U.S. I had contacted the medical director, Dr. Cornelia Haener who is Swiss, but she left for Europe to spend Christmas with her family the day of my arrival. Dave has a friend at the hospital, the physician Dr. Kendrick Kahler from Texas, so it was easy to get a personal tour and impression of the people, the building and the services the hospital is providing.

First we are heaving brealfast

The extra-delicious Khmer pork, fantastic semi-sweet marinade, thinly sliced and grilled, in a broth with glass noodles and a fried egg: The Breakfast of Champions.








Playing with the cat

On our way down south on Road No.2 we stopped several times, for water, for chatting when we saw something new and of interest, such as the new large rice mills, a novelty in the Cambodian economy which previously reserved rice milling to the individual farmer’s level, or for some butt-stretching.

We met a young woman at one of the stops whose ten year old boy had some sort of a severe disability. Dave asked in Khmer what the illness is and the mother mentioned something of a brain infection. By that we were relatively close to Kampot, not too far from the hospital, maybe a two hour ride on the back of a moto scooter. But the mother had never heard about the hospital. Dave arranged for her to call friends of his who will help in setting up a connection which allows her to bring the child to the hospital. I will follow up on this story which interests me very much.



The mother with her 10 year old handicapped son, we help her see a doctor at Sonja Kill Memorial

Another patient with the Cambodian style intravenous drip infusion, on her way to the nearest clinic, maybe hours away.

The bottle is wrapped in a plastic bag to prevent overheating.

Yum: Food again.

Grilled snake.

The facility of Sonja Kill memorial is simply fabulous. The land is owned by the Cambodian government, it is a 99 year lease arrangement; all the buildings are owned by the founder family Dr. and Mrs. Kill from Germany, and the operation is done through Hope International out of Philadelphia, together with the German Kinder Missionswerk (http://www.sternsinger.org/en/home/about-us.html). 

Support comes also from ‘Ein Herz fuer Kinder’ (Our Heart for the Children), the charity of Germany’s largest and most influential tabloid newspaper. (http://www.bild.de/news/einherzfuerkinder/ein-herz-fuer-kinder/home-15682108.bild.html)




Dr. Kendrick Kahler, in wheel chair, another physician and us.






Al-fresco lunch togehter with the doctors



The beautiful single-family residences for doctors.

We get a grand tour of all of the buildings, of which some are still unoccupied. The hospital sat vacant for a few years since the Kill family did not intent to run, or finance the operation. Now, everything is off to a good, albeit, it seems, slow start. I am actually surprised about the lack of patients and activity, but this could be a result of current season. It is rice harvest here, and people are too busy to be ill, or so it seems.

Not only the master plan of the facility is of great beauty and functionality, the German architects also incorporated traditional Khmer ventilation techniques into the design which allows for non-conditioned, pleasantly naturally ventilated patient bed rooms throughout. The ER and operating rooms are all fully conditioned, with the newest laminar flow ac- technology typically used in Western hospitals, though.

The hospital provides housing for doctors on the grounds of the facility, also in beautiful single family residences, mixed with some two-story hotel-room type apartments in guesthouses. There are doctors and anesthesiologists from Ukraine, the U.S., and Canada, a kinesthesiologist from France and about 100+ Khmer staff.

I wish the hospital well, and I sure hope that the local people will their way to it in the event of emergencies and sickness. Although I was told (and I heard from former Khmer patients last year) that the hospital charges practically nothing to local patients, it still seems to be more what most people are able to afford. If the hospital turns into a facility were Western tourists and the growing expat community finds treatment than the purpose would have been lost.

Only time will tell.


We are heading back on the exciting roads leading up north back to the capital. We should arrive just in time for rush-hour. JJ

The bike will also get a much needed wash.













Sunday, December 21, 2014

Gentlemen, start your engines!

I should not forget to present the current off road Enduro Cross rides, from mid-December until mid-January. In case somebody wants to join!




The Man Cave



After the ‘involved’ removal of the BMW’s battery we need to send the dogs out for hunt for a replacement. YUASA batteries can be found plentiful in Phnom Penh, the majority are copies,fakes, cheaply made in China, not the real deal. However, the complex electronics and the amperage requirements of the BMW GS would not cooperate with a poorly made battery, whether it says YUASA on the box, or not.

In short, finding the correct battery here in this part of the world will be a challenge. Unfortunately the times are past when one could simply take a relatively small battery like this, easily purchased in the US, on a plane ride half way across the globe. Nope, sorry, one wouldn't get to far in the process.
We took the old battery to Dave’s friends to the ‘Man Cave’, spend a few hours there waiting whether the boys could locate one, and heard back by phone that they found one, THE ONLY ONE in Cambodia!, at the local YUASA distributor! Wow! Good news!





The new battery gets filled, my Christmas present for the motorcycle!

The battery gets filled, quickly charged and we are heading back to the house to put it in.

The motorcycle starts right up, the sound of the pearly gate bells!          

Cambodian Christmas Service at the Church of Love, Phnom Penh

Christian church in Phnom Penh


Today is Sunday and we are going to attend a Cambodian Christmas celebration and church service.
If church would be like that where I live, or at my summer retreat in Germany for that matter, I probably would go and attend every Sunday!





Cambodian people are in general the friendliest and most warm people imaginable, but here the vibe was even better. There was a lot of singing, dancing, praying, all very cheerful and delightful. Since selfies were actually invented in Cambodia the performances by the young, and older, dancers and singers were recorded on the newest versions of the Samsung Galaxy smart phone, nobody is bothered by me taking pictures, people are coming and going, and the meal preparations outside for the after-church feast are underway.


The Christmas service lasted from 9:00 a.m. to noon, with the usually socializing afterwards it is a 4+ our event. Very memorable.




The girl who watched to many Grumpy Cat videos on YouTube




Sunday afternoons, however, are made not for church, they are reserved for work on motorcycles, and that’s what we planned to do.





I Am Back!!!

Bangkok traffic will never change


Nice view of the city with meandering Chao Praya river




After five busy days in Bangkok, a struggle to overcome my jetlag and the running nose I got due to the constant change between polar a/c temperatures and the outdoor oven set on 'high' , plus a few non-confidence inspiring meetings with the Vanguard VLS ladies at the shipping company, I find myself finally at the old downtown airport Don Mueang ready to embark on a journey to one of my favorite countries, Cambodia.


After an uneventful flight, the Air Asia flight landed safely in Phnom Penh. When I say uneventful it is with a reason. Yesterday I read in the paper that I Chinese couple travelling on an Air Asia flight was so upset about the fact that they couldn't sit together that the young lady threw a steaming hot instant soup served as an onboard meal at the young female flight attendant. The captain returned to the Bangkok airport where the couple was expected by the local authorities. I wrote about Chinese tourists before, so no real need to get back to that again.





The plane was one hour late, unusual for this flight and Air Asia, which caused some inconvenience for my friends Dave and Lisa who had to go to a birthday party at a biker friend’s house. But this is Cambodia after all, so they waited for my tuk-tuk to bring me directly from the airport to their house, and left for the party, also one hour late: We are on Cambodian time.


The ride from the airport to Dave’s house takes about 45 minutes, not much seemed to have changed in the city as I could tell so far, except that traffic went up a notch, from ‘crazy’ to ‘insane’, while the number of scooters and cars seemed to have doubled during the time I was gone.

I can’t really describe what a great feeling this is to see the BMW after more than nine month of abstinence! Here it was, still at the same spot where I left it. A family of moths had built a little home for themselves on the left cylinder head, under the motorcycle cover, and off the ground, this must have been comfortable accommodation.  The bike is very dusty but is happy to see me.


Of course the BMW YUASA battery was completely dead after such a long time. Recharging would have been an option, yet since the battery lasted  literally for six years since new (The trickle charging is the secret), I decided to try to find a new replacement, a true challenge it will be, I’m sure.