2. Luang Prabang
I don’t like
to say too much about the Luang Prabang of the tourists but rather write about
the town beyond the 4 blocks of the historic downtown where everybody seems to
convene. I only can say that the UNESCO inscription which declared Luang
Prabang to be a World Heritage Site seems
to ruin as an unwanted side effect much of the original flair of a locale, not
only here but anywhere in the world.
If this town
high up in the mountains of northern Laos would be only accessible by the one
road I came on it would also change the situation quite a bit. But there is an
airport here, with a brand-new terminal building and people fly in from all
over the world.
But enough
of the detrimental effect of World Heritage status, let’s explore a little bit
the “true” Luang Prabang.
Very proud Hnoung in front of his house, with his Drag Star in the back. |
"Germany" white-wall tires. I wonder where he got these from. |
The Laotian Entrepreneur. |
His impressive business. |
I met a very
young, smart fellow, Hnoung, who runs with his wife a flourishing used car and
motoscooter business. He imports cars and parts, scooters and all kind of
automotive stuff from Thailand. He has a new large steel sales hangar building,
a yard where I saw at least ten people working fixing up vehicles, also
changing the steering wheel from the right to the left. Almost all cars he sells
are pickup trucks, although he has a pink Volkswagen Beetle on display. I
wonder who will buy a vehicle like that, and in this color here in Laos!
Unfortunately he didn’t speak any English, his young wife had to help out, and
if she didn’t get any further he called –on his new I-Phone of course- a friend
who translated over the phone.
He belongs
to the group of people in this country who are smart, have a helpful family
background (Land! And connections, I guess) and who want to fully take
advantage of the Gold Rush mentality in present-day Laos, one-party military
regime, or not.
Of course he
admired the BMW motorcycle, but he was also so proud to show me around what he
had accomplished. And that was impressive. He lives in one of these new
mansions which I also saw on my way leaving the outskirts of Vientiane. Even
here in this remote location, one can see how people want to show off their
wealth. Some of the residences, most of them still under construction, would
put many U.S. McMansions in the suburbs in the States to shame.
Houses of the Laotian newly rich. |
Today I could have sold the BMW right there and then.
He explained
that he has the money in cash available, and he would buy the motorcycle paying
with Thai Baht, 1.5 million TBH, or about $30,000. Of course, I cannot do
this, but it was amazing to see his enthusiasm and entrepreneurship.
He needed to
show me also his own motorcycle, and we sat down and chatted a bit, each one of
us in his own language, and he showing me pictures of the motorcycles of his friends on his I-Phone.
Lot’s of
fun.
It is cold here. At night the temperature goes down to the lower 40s F, during the day it warms up to lower 70s, but only for about two hours or so.
The picture below reminded me of a review I read on Tripadvisor a while ago. A woman was outraged that there was not hot water for one week in the hotel she booked in Laos. She wrote that she wasn't able to wash her hair the entire time.
It is cold here. At night the temperature goes down to the lower 40s F, during the day it warms up to lower 70s, but only for about two hours or so.
The picture below reminded me of a review I read on Tripadvisor a while ago. A woman was outraged that there was not hot water for one week in the hotel she booked in Laos. She wrote that she wasn't able to wash her hair the entire time.
Water temperature maybe 40 degrees, outside air temperature upper 50s: people are tougher around here. |
Another
interesting fellow I met was the parking guard at a Chinese market, who spoke a
little German. In the 1960s he studied in Leningrad, Russia, and while being a
student there he met some –former communist- East-German students. He asked me
stop by on my way out of town tomorrow to say good bye. I will do that.
Most signs
of stores and guesthouses beyond the tourist area are in Lao writing and
Mandarin at the same time, both of which I can’t read. There is a very strong
contingent of Chinese business people here, Laos has what China doesn’t, many
natural resources which need to be exploited, mainly rubber (Latex), rare
earths and raw materials.
It is sad to
see that de-forestation seems also to be a big issue, illegal of course. Some
people get rich quickly, I assume. The illegally harvested wood goes mainly to
Vietnam, and much furniture lands in the homes of Western consumers, think
IKEA.
Interesting
to see is that the town is entirely segregated: There are the tourists who stay
put in the small historic downtown, the Chinese to the north and near the
northern bus terminal (China is a few hours north of here by car or bus), the
Buddhist monks in the temple enclaves, and the simple guest houses, markets and
restaurants for Laotians to the south; there are also Laotian tourists here, mainly
from Vientiane.
I also met briefly a group of crazy French riders on their unbelievable ramshackle machines, some held together by bungy cords. They were on their way up to the Chinese border. At night I saw one of them riding through the dark town, without lights, at high speed. Truly something!
Off he goes, the flag for the independence of Britanny/Bretagne from France flying high! |
A separate
group of western tourists are the young backbacker and dreadlock folks. After
dark it is unfortunate to see that only people from the U.S. are somewhat an
eyesore, noticeable especially in a country where locals are shy and
conservative. They distinguish themselves by walking around with their open 0.7
liter bottles of the local (excellent) “Beerlao”, drinking, and being loud.
That this law which forbids underage alcohol consumption and consummation in
public back home in the U.S. has these consequences abroad is a cultural shame.
I will leave
this town tomorrow morning, and I am still debating whether I will do it back
to Vientiane in one stretch, or stop overnight in Vang Vieng, this dump town.
Last but not least some more of the fabulous communist posters. Great!
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