LAOS P.D.R.
1. Nong Khai (Thailand) – Luang Prabang (Laos)
365 km, 10.5 hours, including 1 hour border formalities, 1
hour breakfast in Vientiane (Laos), no lunch.
This is an
unforgettable ride through the mountains of northern Laos.
From the small
capital of Vientiane Highway 13N starts out relatively unspectacular,
surprisingly easy to ride, average to good road conditions, cautious and predictable
Laotian drivers, a relief from the chaos in Cambodia. Traffic moves rather slow
here which is good.
It is fair to say that if Cambodia is like Thailand some 20 years ago, Laos is like Cambodia 20 years ago. People in the countryside are desperately poor.
But maybe you are interested to read this article:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/laos/10572583/Chinas-120mph-railway-arriving-in-Laos.html
It is fair to say that if Cambodia is like Thailand some 20 years ago, Laos is like Cambodia 20 years ago. People in the countryside are desperately poor.
But maybe you are interested to read this article:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/laos/10572583/Chinas-120mph-railway-arriving-in-Laos.html
Motivational poster in town. |
Quiz: On which side of the road does one drives in Laos? |
Welcome to Vang Vieng. Mountain ranges between me and my destination in the background. |
Vang Vieng: From here the road climbs into the spectacular pountains |
In the Vang Vieng area |
My concern
was always that the roads here in Laos are mostly unpaved; I remember how the
BMW couple from Malaysia looked like when I met them shortly after they crossed
the border into Thailand: Covered in dirt, man and machine. They also commented
on the selection of my CONTINENTAL dirt tires saying that I would need them in
Laos. But the first leg of today’s ride from Vientiane to Vang Vieng is
entirely easy to ride. There are sections of gravel and compacted dirt, some areas
with potholes in the asphalted stretches of the road too, but nothing of any
concern.
Typically people
make an overnight stop in Vang Vieng, the infamous western backpacker heaven
from years back, when many drunken young folks lost their lives tubing in the
river. Some locals even don’t want to go near the Nam Song river any longer,
since too many ghosts haunt the area, they say.
The town was
also in the news before and during the Vietnam war since it hosted an airstrip called
LIMA Site #6 for the CIA’s covered “Air America” operations in Southeast Asia (http://www.air-america.org). Also a movie
(1990): http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0099005/
Today Vang Vieng is still a party town for
Western teenagers, however the military cleaned up the worst excesses of the
alcohol-laden high-times a few years back.
When I approached
Vang Vieng at around 3.00 p.m. I decided to press on and do the ride in one
day. Well, that was a courageous decision which I will revise when I have to
ride the same road back in a few days. On my return ride There will be a
overnight stop in Vang Vieng, no doubt.
From Vang Vieng
the fun begins. The road climbs from 170 meters MSL/565 ft MSL (Vientiane) to
more than 1600 meters when crossing the multiple mountain passes before
reaching Luang Prabang. Serpentine after serpentine leads through the
spectacular karst limestone mountains, almost a little comparable to the
mountains on the Phuket peninsular in Thailand. Traffic is rather light however
you need to stay fully awake. Some big trucks move up the passes in snail’s
speed and one could just be behind the next curve, invisible. Nobody counted
the curves on this road, but my guess is that it EASILY beats the 1,864 curves
of the famous Mae Hong Son Loop I rode a few months ago in northern Thailand.
The roads
leads through numerous small mountain villages where the thatched roof shacks
are clinging to the cliffs and the side of the road in single-file. Some of the
houses are constructed of concrete masonry units but the majority is made of
bamboo and wood. Every third shack has a full-size satellite dish, maybe some 6
feet across.
It is cold
up here, on my temperature gauge it reads between the lower and upper 50s F.
Since people’s shacks are flammable cooking takes place throughout the village
directly at the edge of the narrow road. A couple of branches are laid on top
of each other supporting a big pot of boiling something and people squat around
it. It is also noticeable how many kids live here. They equally play directly
in the shadow of the passing tanker trucks and busses; the hills are steep not
much real estate is left as front yard for the houses.
When I
passed though the villages at around 5.00 p.m. it was obviously everybody’s
time to take a bath. Women and girls gather around the village bath place which
is marked by a fresh-water filled drum and clean themselves out in the open. There
are no internal bathrooms in the houses. The entire procedure is accomplished
by washing underneath the Laotian sarong, or here: Phaa Nung. Women help themselves
by washing each other’s long hair with water buckets. Remember the temperatures
are low up here! Men have their own cleaning station, although I didn’t see
many men washing themselves. Each village has one or more communal toilets,
around six in one row. On some of them I saw a fee being noted: 2000 Kip, about
25 cents.
Besides the trucks,
cars, scooters busses, children of all ages and the adults the road is
populated by goats, cats, dogs, very skinny cows, and little black pigs. They
are the best! When they leisurely cross the road and hear me coming they speed
up to make it in time to the other side. This looks like they are wearing high
heels, very funny.
I had to stop
in one of the villages to open my aluminum panniers and grab another sweatshirt
since it became pretty chilly towards the evening. A touching scene happened: A little boy came out
of the shacks towards me, unsmiling, just staring at me, and slowly touching
the motorcycle, my arm, my chest and my hand. He didn't want stop
touching and shaking my hand, without any smile or other facial reaction. But I had to move on and he went back into the shack.
Since there
are no street signs providing any directions I took a wrong turn in a village (GPS
map not reliable, and my good German road-map wasn't consulted early enough);
the detour cost me about one hour of the already tight schedule. I didn't make
it to Luang Prabang in daylight, which was not my plan at all. Night riding is
not what I want to do, but today there wasn't any choice. I made it to Luang
Prabang in one piece, pretty tired.
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